Délice out; WheatFields in

Délice European Bakery & Café in the Old Market soon will serve its last latte, its final scone.

Délice, a 21-year institution, will close June 28.

Manager Holly Engdahl tried not to cry as she talked about how her 4-year-old daughter, Chloe, learned to walk, talk and relish sweets in the restaurant.

“And she knows this as her second home,” Engdahl said. “She loves to run around here.”

Engdahl and her father, Délice owner Pat McDermott, decided that their rent had increased too much to remain in business.

Ron Popp, owner of WheatFields restaurants, said Tuesday that he intends to move into the Délice space at 12th and Howard Streets in August with a WheatFields Express. WheatFields Express will focus on carryout, but there will be sit-down space, too, Popp said.

McDermott, 68, informed his staff early this week that he was closing Délice (pronounced De-LEESE). “We can't afford to stay,” he said.

McDermott didn't rule out the possibility of relocating.

“We're in the process of talking to people now,” said McDermott, who has owned the restaurant since 1998. “But we've not found anything yet that really is satisfactory.”

Délice, an order-at-the-counter restaurant, is known for its pastries, quiches, coffees, salads and other treats. Among its “savories” is a turkey-sweet potato pie.

Set amid its red, black and white décor are French posters and wooden tables and chairs.

Shirley Loy, a longtime Délice employee, called it a hard blow.

“They've been such wonderful people to work for,” said Loy, whom many customers assumed was McDermott's wife because she is a regular behind the counter. “And I've made so many wonderful friends here.”

In fact, McDermott's wife is Sandi McDermott, who often walks with granddaughter Chloe both inside and outside the restaurant.

Arvin DeMarco, owner of DeMarco Brothers Co. in downtown Omaha, said he met his office manager, Dianna Drickey, every morning at Délice to get organized. She ordered coffee; he would have tea.

DeMarco felt so comfortable there that he often returned for lunch.

“I just got so used to that place because of the people themselves,” he said. “I don't know where else I'll fit in.”

Engdahl said that just as her little girl found Délice a delightful spot to experience the world, so she has found it a great place to enrich her relationship with her dad.

“Even on the most frustrating days, we had something we could laugh about and make light of,” Engdahl said. “So I'm really grateful for that opportunity.”

Contact the writer:

444-1123, rick.ruggles@owh.com