Cookbook Showcase: Cajun sweets

In a nutshell: After Katrina, restaurateur and pastry chef David Guas wanted to celebrate the New Orleans desserts of his childhood. He offers 50 decadent recipes, each sprinkled with delightful stories and memories. Food writer Raquel Pelzel co-writes, making each recipe easy to follow and the stories interesting to read.

Features: The recipes are clear and concise, and everything we tried was delicious. They vary from simple to complex. There are recipes for “Old School N'awlins” like King Cake and Bananas Foster, cakes, pies, summertime treats and spreadable sweets. There is also a chapter on lagniappes — a New Orleans tradition of a little something extra you get at the end of a meal from a host or chef, such as pralines and Roman Chewing Candy.

Pluses: Each recipe is preceded with a personal story and/or a history of the dish. Each chapter opens with an entertaining and informative introduction, so the cookbook reads a bit like a travelogue or memoir. Scattered throughout the book are the authors' tips, which include shortcuts, cooking advice, even how to make vanilla.

Minuses: Some of the ingredients are not common everywhere and could be a bit difficult to find. The book does list Web resources for some of the more unusual ones.

We tried: Chocolate Chip Cookie Cake

The verdict: It was wonderful. Guas said it was one of his family's favorites, and it has quickly become a favorite of ours. Sinfully rich and exceptionally easy to put together, it makes a great impression on children and adults alike.

Chocolate Chip Cookie Cake

2 cups (12 ounces) of semisweet chocolate chips or chunks (58%-62% cacao), roughly chopped

1/3 cup heavy cream

1 stick plus 1½ tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup light brown sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon almond extract

1 large egg

To make the ganache, place ¾ cup of the chocolate in a small bowl. Bring the cream to a boil over medium-high heat and pour it over the chocolate. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 3 minutes, then whisk it from the center of the bowl out to the edges until smooth (don't vigorously whisk the chocolate mixture — you don't want to whip in air bubbles). Re-cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for at least 6 hours or overnight.

To make the cookie cake, heat the oven to 350 degrees F. Place a 10-inch cake pan on top of a piece of parchment paper and trace a circle. Cut the circle out and set aside. Grease the 10-inch cake pan with the 1½ tablespoons of softened butter, and then press the parchment circle into the pan. Grease the top of the parchment with a little more butter and set the pan aside.

Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl and set aside. Using a stand mixer or a hand mixer, cream the stick of butter, light brown sugar, vanilla extract and almond extract on medium speed until well combined, about 1 minute. Increase the mixer speed to high and beat for 15 seconds. Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the egg. Blend on medium speed for 30 seconds. Add the dry ingredients and combine on low speed until just a few dry streaks remain. Add the remaining chopped chocolate and mix for a few seconds until combined.

Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan. Dip a rubber spatula in cold water, shake off the excess and use it to press the batter into a smooth and even layer in the pan. Bake until lightly golden brown and puffy around the edges (the center should still feel quite soft), about 18 to 22 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes and then run a paring knife around the edge of the pan to release the cake. Cool for at least 4 hours before turning the cake out of the pan and onto a large plate (or cutting board). Peel off the parchment, then invert back onto a cake plate or stand.

Use a rubber spatula to fill a pastry bag with an 8 mm tip (or a resealable plastic bag with one corner snipped off) with the ganache. Pipe a decorative border around the edge of the cake and streak with the remaining ganache across the entire cake, or write the name of the recipient in the center.

Makes one 10-inch cake.

Note: Ganache needs to set up for a while to thicken before you can pipe it. Guas often makes it the night before he plans to use it (cover it flush with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature). The cake keeps covered (a large, inverted metal mixing bowl works well as a lid), and at room temperature, for up to 1 day.

Test kitchen notes: The cake will fall in the center if turned too early.

Contact the writer: 444-1319, jolene.mchugh@owh.com

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