Skip to main content
You have permission to edit this article.
Edit
The flavors of fall

The flavors of fall

  • 0
Kohlrabi, in green and purple. The vegetable is technically not a bulb, but instead an above-ground stem.

Kohlrabi, in green and purple. The vegetable is technically not a bulb, but instead an above-ground stem.

My anxieties subside when three things align in my world: a full gas tank, cash in my wallet and plenty of food in the refrigerator. Specifically, fresh fruit and vegetables.

For fall, think squash, onions, potatoes, sweet peppers and hot chiles. The variety of tubers and root vegetables can be intimidating, but rest assured most take to simple cooking methods, such as steaming and roasting, beautifully.

I’m particularly fond of the mild-mannered, pale green globes of kohlrabi. Especially when they sport bright-green, leaf-topped stems. Not only does that mean they are very fresh, but also those leaves are edible. I treat the greens like lacinato kale — steaming or sauteing them.

Kohlrabi is technically not a root vegetable or a tuber; rather it is an enlarged, above-ground stem. I prefer to purchase kohlrabi when it’s the size of a baseball because it can be enjoyed raw in thin slices or fine shreds, or quickly steamed in the microwave. Some kohlrabi varieties can be as large as a softball — these are best steamed to tenderness. I always peel the globes to remove any tough, fibrous skin.

Kohlrabi, with its mild, broccoli-stem flavor, absorbs other ingredients, such as herbs, garlic, soy sauce, olive oil or butter, beautifully.

Beets, on the other hand, sport loads of their own unique, earthy flavor. Cooks and chefs have embraced the once-maligned burgundy-red root and now feature them prominently on menus and in cookbooks. Non-traditional types include candy stripe, golden and white beets. I like how well all of them pair with flavored oils and smoky bacon fat. Sharp additions such as tangy cheese, vinegar, onions and garlic help mellow their inherent beetiness. So does oven-roasting or grill-steaming them in foil packets.

Like kohlrabi, the freshest beets are sold with their green leafy tops intact. Do not discard the greens — instead saute them in a skillet with a little olive oil and enjoy as a side or addition to scrambled eggs or grain bowls. To motivate me to cook the greens before they wilt terribly, I remove them as soon as I get the beets home. Rinse, spin dry and they are good to go.

The kohlrabi and sausage skillet supper that follows can be made with other vegetables as well. I often sub in diced parsnip and turnip as well as cubes of golden potatoes. The foil-packet roasted beets taste good hot or chilled. I spoon warm leftovers onto toasted naan for a casual meatless main dish.

Kohlrabi and Carrot Ribbon Salad

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: 10 minutes

Makes: 4 to 6 side servings

3 medium-size kohlrabi, about 1½ pounds, trimmed, peeled

2 medium-size carrots, trimmed, peeled

2½ tablespoons tamari soy sauce

2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar

1½ to 2 tablespoons honey or sugar, to taste

½ to 1 tablespoon piri piri hot sauce (or other hot sauce), optional, to taste

½ teaspoon dark Asian sesame oil

Salt

Chopped fresh green onions or chives

Sesame seeds

1. Cut peeled kohlrabi in half through the stem end. Put the cut side down on the cutting board and slice thinly into half-moons. You should have about 4 cups. Use a vegetable peeler to shave carrots into long ribbons; you should have about 2 cups loosely packed.

2. Put sliced kohlrabi into a microwave-safe bowl. Add 1/3 cup water and cover with a lid or plastic wrap vented at one corner. Microwave on high (100% power), stirring once or twice, until fork-tender, 6 to 8 minutes. (The tip of a fork should pierce it easily.) Let stand, covered, 5 minutes. Drain well. Return to bowl; stir in carrots. Cover and set aside while you make the dressing.

3. Whisk together soy sauce, vinegar, honey, hot sauce and oil in a medium-size bowl until homogenous. Add kohlrabi and carrots. Toss well to coat. Taste and season with salt. Serve warm or at room temperature garnished with plenty of chopped green onions and sesame seeds.

Nutrition information per serving (for 6 servings): 69 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 10 g sugar, 3 g protein, 665 mg sodium, 4 g fiber

Smoked Sausage and Kohlrabi Skillet

Prep: 20 minutes

Cook: 20 minutes

Makes: 6 entree servings

3 medium-size kohlrabi, about 1½ pounds, peeled, diced to ¾-inch size

Salt

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 large (12 ounces) Vidalia or other sweet onion, halved, thinly sliced

1 small red, yellow or orange bell pepper, seeded, diced

3 cups chopped fresh kohlrabi greens, lacinato kale or baby kale leaves

½ teaspoon ground cumin

12 ounces smoked, fully-cooked sausage, such as Polish, kielbasa, cheddarwurst or andouille, sliced ½-inch thick

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 cups cooked pasta, optional

Malt or unfiltered cider vinegar

1. Put diced kohlrabi into a microwave-safe bowl. Add ½ cup water and ½ teaspoon salt; stir well. Cover with a lid or plastic wrap vented at one corner. Microwave on high (100% power) until fork-tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Let stand, 5 minutes. Drain well.

2. Meanwhile, heat a large (12- or 14-inch) nonstick skillet over medium heat, then add oil and onion. Cook, stirring often, until golden, about 8 minutes.

3. Add drained kohlrabi and red pepper to onions. Cook, stirring, to brown the kohlrabi, about 5 minutes. Stir in greens, ¼ cup water, cumin and ¼ teaspoon salt; cook and stir, 2 minutes. Stir in sausage and garlic. Cook, covered, to heat everything through, 2 to 4 minutes. Add pasta if using and heat through, about 2 minutes. Serve with splashes of vinegar, if desired.

Note: If desired, use smoked sausage made from turkey or chicken here to reduce the richness of the dish. If serving the dish with pasta, choose medium shapes such as penne, orecchiette or gemelli.

Nutrition information per serving (without pasta): 296 calories, 24 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 41 mg cholesterol, 13 g carbohydrates, 6 g sugar, 9 g protein, 619 mg sodium, 3 g fiber

Grilled golden beets center a fall salad that makes a colorful dinner, with sauteed beet greens, red onions, bell pepper, herbs and crumbled feta.

Grilled golden beets center a fall salad that makes a colorful dinner, with sauteed beet greens, red onions, bell pepper, herbs and crumbled feta.

Grilled Beets and Greens

Prep: 30 minutes

Cook: 30 minutes

Makes: 6 servings

4 large golden or red beets with leafy green tops, about 1½ pounds

1 small red or yellow bell pepper, seeded, diced

1 large (12 ounces) red onion, halved, thinly sliced into wedges

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon salt, plus more as needed

½ teaspoon dried thyme

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 or 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 cup crumbled feta cheese or farmer’s cheese or queso fresco

Chopped cilantro or parsley

1. Prepare a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to medium hot. (Or heat oven to 375 F.)

2. Remove leafy green tops from beets, rinse them thoroughly and roughly chop. Set aside.

3. Peel beets and cut into ¾-inch dice. Place on a large sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Top with bell pepper, half of the onion and half of the olive oil. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt, the thyme and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Fold foil to completely enclose beets.

4. Put the foil packet on the grill directly over the coals if using charcoal or over the heat source if using a gas grill (or on a baking sheet in the oven). Cook, turning the packet once, until beets are fork-tender (peek into the packet and spear them with a knife), 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer from the foil package to a bowl. Season with the balsamic vinegar and adjust salt and pepper to taste.

5. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1½ tablespoons oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining onion and cook until golden, about 4 minutes. Stir in chopped beet greens; saute until barely wilted and tender, 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in garlic; saute, 1 minute. Remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

6. Spoon beets over the greens. Sprinkle with feta and herbs. Serve.

Note: If you do not have fresh, unwilted beet greens, substitute about 4 cups chopped lacinato kale or Swiss chard leaves.

Nutrition information per serving: 187 calories, 12 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 22 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 9 g sugar, 6 g protein, 486 mg sodium, 3 g fiber

Be the first to know

* I understand and agree that registration on or use of this site constitutes agreement to its user agreement and privacy policy.

Related to this story

Most Popular

Food

For the amount of time I have spent in the kitchen, one would think that roasting a chicken would be old hat by now. I should have dozens of roasted chickens in my culinary past. Sadly, until last year, I could count the number of chickens I've roasted in my lifetime on one hand. Why? Maybe it's the dried-out chicken breasts the teen in me remembers eating at friends' homes that made me ...

Food

It isn't quite pizza. But it sort of is. Flatbread is pizza's flamboyant cousin. There is a strong DNA connection, and they often look alike. But there is a difference, and after considerable thought and reflection I think I have determined what it is: tomato sauce. Pizza has it. Flatbread does not. If flatbread has tomato sauce, it is pizza. If pizza does not have tomato sauce, it may still ...

Food

At Heritage Barbecue in San Juan Capistrano, California, pitmaster and co-owner Daniel Castillo, who owns the restaurant with his wife Brenda, applies a carnitas method to the process of cooking his pork shoulder. "It's hard to put 'carnitas' on the menu because that's a specific thing," says Castillo, "but that's exactly what we're making, a smoked carnitas." But for home cooks, he offers up ...

Food

Request a recipe for nachos and you might get an eye roll. After all, there is nothing to it. Piling things on chips and warming them in a microwave or oven is as complicated as boiling water. But it requires a little more effort as the ingredient list becomes longer or when each step involves a different technique. Then there's the question of which toppings can handle a high temperature and ...

Food

Vegetables mixed with fragrant spices of cinnamon, ginger and turmeric make a savory Moroccan tagine. A tagine is a dish made in a glazed earthenware dish with a conical lid, which is also called a tagine. Steam gathers at the top of the lid and falls on the food, keeping it moist. Any type of skillet or casserole can be used for this quick dish. This recipe captures the flavors of a Moroccan ...

Food

It isn't quite pizza. But it sort of is. Flatbread is pizza's flamboyant cousin. There is a strong DNA connection, and they often look alike. But there is a difference, and after considerable thought and reflection I think I have determined what it is: tomato sauce. Pizza has it. Flatbread does not. If flatbread has tomato sauce, it is pizza. If pizza does not have tomato sauce, it may still ...

Food

Friends tell me they feel intimidated cooking for me. I let them in on my secrets to ease their minds: My favorite dinner involves popcorn. Or a baked potato. Occasionally, just a burger. I keep these weekly meals from boredom by swirling in some variety or inspirations from dining out. Cheese and black pepper on the popcorn, for example, might remind me of cacio e pepe at our favorite Italian ...

Food

If you're like me, you want to keep on tasting summer for at least another couple of weeks. I am especially reluctant to say goodbye to the many shades of homegrown tomatoes I've been stuffing myself silly with for the past two months. Luckily, I still have quite a bit of fruit on my vines (a benefit of planting late this year). While I plan on making much of it into sauce, I'm also turning ...

Get up-to-the-minute news sent straight to your device.

Topics

all

Breaking News

Huskers Breaking News

News Alert