The owner of Omaha’s Hook & Lime restaurant looks forward to the day he can quit relying on a nationwide food delivery company.
“I’ve used DoorDash and Grubhub and Uber (Eats), but they all charge exorbitant prices, usually around 30% of the cost of the order,” said Robert Malm, whose Mexican eatery has been open in north downtown for about four years. “Restaurants are a small-margin business, and 30% is really steep.”
Malm hopes he won’t have to use third-party delivery services much longer. He recently joined Omaha LoCo, a new locally owned delivery co-op, and when the kinks are worked out and it’s fully operational, he’ll bid farewell to his current vendor, he says.
For $2,500, restaurants can become members of the cooperative, which charges commissions between 13% and 15%. Co-op members also share Omaha LoCo’s profits.
The service started Monday and was online from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Only two restaurants were up and running on the app that day — Hook & Lime (closed on Mondays) and California Tacos & More.
But the service got its first four orders, and that was good, said Clay Seaman, Omaha LoCo’s general manager.
“It was a super-smooth slow rollout,” he said.
More choices will be available soon. About 25 restaurants are on board so far, but there’s a lag between when agreements are reached and when all the technology is in place.
More restaurants are interested. Since the coronavirus pandemic began and takeout operations became crucial, local owners have been increasingly frustrated with the expenses involved in third-party delivery.
Many describe it as a necessary evil, finding it economically and logistically untenable to coordinate delivery in-house.
“Managing it is very difficult work, not the kind of thing most restaurants do normally,” said Brian O’Malley, a co-op member and associate dean of culinary, hospitality and horticulture for Metropolitan Community College.
Restaurants often pass on the cost of the third-party services to the consumer. A customer who recently wanted takeout checked one Omaha eatery’s online and dine-in menus, and the prices for most items on the delivery menu were several dollars more.
Blane Hunter, owner of Porky Butts BBQ, said he considered setting up his own delivery operation but issues such as workforce availability and insurance liability were too daunting, especially for a relatively new restaurateur.
“I’d love to do it sometime,” he said, “because I don’t like the big guys.”
Hunter said he has been leery about local delivery services because he has heard stories about insufficient driver staffing at peak times in other cities. He said he had heard about Omaha LoCo through the grapevine and was interested in learning more.
O’Malley says Omaha LoCo has dozens of drivers. He handles restaurant relationships for LoCo while others work on logistics and the financial side.
He said the owners of Omaha’s Oasis Falafel floated the co-op idea because they participated in a similar endeavor in Iowa City, Iowa.
In fact, said Seaman, Omaha LoCo is a franchise of the Iowa City co-op, called Chomp. Others using the app are in Knoxville, Tennessee, and Richmond, Virginia.
Omaha LoCo wants to limit membership to 60 to begin with, Seaman said. But any restaurant in the area can be included at rates slightly higher than members — they will pay about 18% to 20% commission on each order.
Non-members will get all the advantages except a share of the profits and the ability to weigh in on company decisions, Seaman said.
In addition to the economic benefits, locally owned and operated delivery services have an accessibility advantage over national companies, participants said.
Seaman said a live person will monitor LoCo activity every day from 10 a.m. until 10 p.m. If something is omitted from an order, they will make sure the item is delivered, even if it’s by a different driver.
“When I am talking with restaurant (owners) it’s always the same story: ‘Man, it would be so nice to have somebody local to talk to,’” Seaman said.
Omaha LoCo, which has been in the works for several months, refined its delivery process when it administered a meals program funded by a $500,000 CARES Act grant from Douglas County in December.
It worked with area restaurants and pantries to provide 7,000 meals for food-insecure families.
“We got our feet wet big time,” Seaman said.
The December effort gave Omaha LoCo a stable of drivers to start the delivery business.
Hook & Lime was one of the restaurants that made the family meals, Malm said, and that’s what sold him on membership in LoCo.
“It was amazing. Struggling restaurants were getting money to help their operations and we were helping families that needed it,” he said. “It was a no-brainer to sign up after that.”
Participation also was a must for O’Malley, who had been watching Omaha chefs, restaurant owners and personnel despair over delivery while wrestling with a pandemic. Some, no doubt, are former Metro students.
“Restaurants were needing something that wasn’t causing as much harm as good,” O’Malley said. “Keeping restaurants alive is a critical part of having an awesome city to live in. They are an important part of the social fabric, cultural fabric and economic fabric. That’s why it was important for me to be a part of this.”
Omaha Dines: Here are the city’s 35 essential restaurants
Stella’s Bar & Grill

1. Stella’s Bar & Grill, 106 Galvin Road South, Bellevue
This little burger shack has become local legend: burgers are served on napkins, and lines to get in can get long. Stella’s is also known for its gigantic Stellanator burger. Challengers get 45 minutes to devour six burger patties, six fried eggs, six pieces of cheese, a dozen slices of bacon, lettuce, tomato, fried onions, pickles, jalapeños, peanut butter, a bun and an order of fries.
UMAMI Asian Cuisine

2. Umami Asian Cuisine, 504 Galvin Road South, Bellevue
Chef Keen Zheng moved to Bellevue from New York, where he was working at the four-star Sushi Nakazawa. He opened Umami, and instantly began serving some of the city’s best sushi out of a former Godfather’s Pizza location. He offers a full menu of cooked Thai and Chinese dishes, as well as regular counter omakase service.
Le Bouillon

3. Le Bouillon, 1017 Howard St.
Le Bouillon replaced one of the city’s oldest and well-regarded spots, the French Cafe. It’s carried on the tradition of French cuisine in downtown Omaha, but in a more modern way, with a raw bar, excellent tartines and a weekend punch special that’s always fresh and costs just $5 a cup. The French onion soup is stellar. Check out its sister, Howard Street Wine Merchant, which has lovely natural wines.
V. Mertz

4. V. Mertz, 1022 Howard St.
An Omaha staple since it opened in the 1970s, V. Mertz is also a staple of the historic Old Market neighborhood. It’s located in the passageway, a popular walkway, and the restaurant itself oozes romance. The menu still includes favorites like pepper steak but has evolved with the times; the tasting menu is popular for many special occasion diners.
La Buvette

5. La Buvette, 511 S. 11th St.
This classic French spot is part restaurant, part wine bar and part wine shop, and its sometimes brusque service, shared plates such as hummus and cheese, house-made baguette and affordable wine make it an Old Market standard. When the weather allows, it has one of the busiest patios in Omaha.
M’s Pub

6. M’s Pub, 422 S. 11th St.
Even after a fire in 2016 destroyed the original M’s, the Old Market classic is back; if you hadn’t heard about the fire, you wouldn’t know it happened when you’re dining there. Owner Anne Mellen restored the beloved spot down to the smallest details, and the menu got the same treatment. Its lahvosh crackers topped with a variety of items are popular, as are the crab cakes and other light entrees.
The Boiler Room Restaurant

7. The Boiler Room Restaurant, 1110 Jones St.
One of the city’s highest-end restaurants, The Boiler Room delivers on all fronts: atmosphere; one of Omaha’s biggest wine lists; and constantly creative cuisine coming from James Beard semifinalist Tim Nicholson. Stop in for a cocktail, if nothing else, and experience the interior designed by Omaha legends Mark and Vera Mercer (they also had a hand in creating V. Mertz and La Buvette).
Blue Sushi Sake Grill

8. Blue Sushi Sake Grill, 416 S. 12th St.; 14450 Eagle Run Drive; 16939 Wright Plaza
Blue could be credited with introducing Omaha to sushi and all-day happy hours, and its popularity endures in the form of three locations. It’s still packed on Sundays, when its broad happy hour specials last all day. The menu of rolls includes classics like the crunchy Blue roll. More recent additions include vegan options.
Kitchen Table

9. Kitchen Table, 1415 Farnam St.
This small restaurant started downtown with a local, seasonal focus and became known for its popcorn; sandwiches including the whole bird, which has an egg, a chicken thigh and crisped chicken skin; and a weekend brunch service.
Block 16

10. Block 16, 1611 Farnam St.
One of the city’s most popular spots, chef-owners Paul and Jessica Urban are trained in fine dining and use that background to create epic street food, including the Croque Garcon burger, which widely known critic Alton Brown called one of his favorites in the nation. On weekends, the Urbans flex their muscles, creating high-end specials at the dinner hour.
El Dorado Mexican Restaurant

11. El Dorado Mexican Restaurant, 5134 S. 24th St.
This seafood-focused spot is nestled in one of Omaha’s best foodie neighborhoods, South 24th Street. (It’s surrounded by plenty of delicious taquerías and a few ice cream shops, too.) El Dorado is best known for both its live mariachi bands on weekends and its huge towers of seafood, which are enough for at least a few diners.
Johnny’s Cafe

12. Johnny’s Cafe, 4702 S. 27th St.
An Omaha classic near the sites of Omaha’s historic Stockyards, Johnny’s is one of the city’s oldest steakhouses. Come for the kitschy bar and the lobby full of historic menus — take a look at those prices — and stay for the red meat and a Manhattan.
Dinker's

13. Dinker’s, 2368 S. 29th St.
Omahans will argue about where to find the city’s best burger, and Dinker’s has a lot of passionate fans. The restaurant is cash only, and diners place their orders at a back counter. Fun fact: Dinker’s has one flat-top grill devoted entirely to buns. The onion rings are a customer favorite, too.
Time Out Chicken

14. Time Out Chicken, 3518 N. 30th St.
Arguably the best chicken in Omaha, Time Out, in the heart of north Omaha, is worth a stop. The meat, marinated in a secret recipe, gets breaded in flour with a combination of spices (cayenne pepper is one). It comes, as any fried chicken dinner should, with a dinner roll and a side option, including baked beans, coleslaw and potato salad.
Lo Sole Mio

15. Lo Sole Mio is known for its ample portions. It will begin offering takeout on Tuesday.
Modern Love

16. Modern Love, 3157 Farnam St.
Omaha’s only fully vegan restaurant, run by widely known chef and cookbook author Isa Chandra Moskowitz, recently moved into a bigger, brighter location. (Its second location? Brooklyn.) Moskowitz has created citywide favorites with her mac and shews, made with cashew cream; excellent pies and milkshakes; and a periodic vegan Reuben special made with tempeh.
Crescent Moon

18. Crescent Moon, 3578 Farnam St.
Considered by many as the home of the city’s best Reuben, the Moon serves it up right across the street from where it has been said the sandwich was invented, the Blackstone Hotel (now undergoing renovation). The Moon also is well-known for its vast list of craft and local beer; it has 60-plus options on tap each day. The bar’s annual Reubenfest celebrates the historic Omaha sandwich.
Coneflower Creamery

19. Coneflower Creamery, 3921 Farnam St.
Coneflower’s motto is “farm to cone,” and the little ice cream shop is serious about using local ingredients and making from scratch anything it can; even the sprinkles are house-made. Don’t skip the warm chocolate chip cookie ice cream sandwich, but be prepared to wait in line, particularly during the summer.
La Casa Pizzaria

20. La Casa Pizzaria, 4432 Leavenworth St.; 8216 Grover St.; 610 S. 168th St.
Perhaps one of Omaha’s most “love-it-or-hate-it” restaurants, La Casa has a devoted army of passionate followers. Its singular pizzas have a thin crust with a biscuit-like edge and are often topped with small bits of ground beef, among other ingredients. The original location, with its iconic neon sign, is on Leavenworth, but there are two more farther to the west.
Salween Thai

21. Salween Thai, 1102 Northwest Radial; 6553 Ames Ave.; 7425 Pacific St.
Omaha has plenty of Thai offerings; Salween, which does brisk delivery service all over the city, is one of the most reliable. Pad Thai, Pad See Ew and panang curry are among its most popular entrées. Be advised: the heat scale, from 1-10, at Salween runs hot, so order a lower number if you prefer your meal to be milder.
Saddle Creek Breakfast Club

22. Saddle Creek Breakfast Club, 1540 N. Saddle Creek Road
Diners line up every weekend for the banana pancakes, kimchee omelet, biscuits and gravy and steaming coffee at this little neighborhood spot. But if you have time to linger, the wait is worth it: The restaurant even serves its own blend of coffee, made locally by Amateur Coffee Co.
Dario's Brasserie

23. Dario’s Brasserie, 4920 Underwood Ave.
Belgian beer, mussels and crêpes, plus a popular brunch menu and weekly beer specials in the back bar keep people coming back to this spot, where chef Dario Schicke has created a devoted following. His other restaurant, northern Italian-focused Avoli, is just down the street.
Pitch Pizzeria

24. Pitch Pizzeria, 5021 Underwood Ave.; 17808 Burke St.
Pitch has a lively (OK, sometimes noisy) atmosphere, coal-fired pizzas, a great burger and a solid list of house wines made in collaboration with a California vineyard. A second location in west Omaha offers a similar menu plus a second-level roof deck.
Yoshitomo

25. Yoshitomo, 6009 Maple St.
Chef David Utterback is making some of the most adventurous sushi in Omaha. He brings in a vast selection of fish you won’t find anywhere else (except Umami, perhaps) and then does his work: aging, pickling, smoking and otherwise creating something totally unique to Omaha. His popular omakase events often sell out; so, too, do his chef pop-ups.
Au Courant

26. Au Courant, 6064 Maple St.
Chef Ben Maides’ $55, five-course chef tasting menu is one of the best deals anywhere in Omaha, especially considering his focus on local, seasonal, creative cuisine. Au Courant is one of those restaurants that can please locals and visitors alike, a rare, pleasurable feat.
Ika Ramen & Izakaya

27. Ika Ramen & Izakaya, 6109 Maple St.; 1114 Jones St.
Ika is Omaha’s most fun, vibrant ramen shack, and you can enjoy it at two locations — the original in Benson and at Ika San downtown. Classics like tonkotsu are there, but regular rotating specials offer singular takes on the dish. The cold “hot noods” bowl of spicy noodles is a local favorite, as are the saucy Brussels sprouts.
Blue & Fly Asian Kitchen

28. Blue & Fly Asian Kitchen, 721 S. 72nd St.
If it's legit Chinese you're after, Blue & Fly is your place. The restaurant serves a variety of specialties, among them a soup featuring whitefish submerged in a broth full of Sichuan numbing peppercorns, sweet-savory Chinese egg and tomato, sautéed bok choy and other greens, plus spicy mapo tofu. For an adventure, check out the lit menu board on the wall; staff is happy to translate or further explain the specials.
The Drover

29. The Drover, 2121 S. 73rd St.
The Drover is open once again. The Drover isn’t as old as the other steakhouse on this list, but it’s just as treasured; known most for its large bone-in ribeye, diners can get their steak dunked in the restaurant’s secret whiskey marinade. The salad bar, with its cold metal plates, was one of the first in Omaha.
El Basha Mediterranean Grill

30. El Basha Mediterranean Grill, 7503 Pacific St.
All food at El Basha is bathed in a bright sprinkling of fresh herbs, including cilantro and parsley, and the kitchen’s careful touch runs through the whole menu. Find some of Omaha’s favorite falafel, served in a wrap with hummus and pickles, as well as Lebanese specialties like lentil soup, baba ganoush, shwarma and kabobs.
Twisted Cork Bistro

31. Twisted Cork Bistro, 10730 Pacific St.
With its focus on the staples (and the wine) of the Pacific Northwest, plus a dash of Hawaiian cuisine, Twisted Cork is one of Omaha’s more distinctive restaurants. Diners return for the fresh fish, including poke, along with a burger that the Food Network called one of its favorites. The wine, particularly the Oregon pinot noir, is another draw.
Tired Texan BBQ

32. Tired Texan BBQ, 4702 S. 108th St.
Unlike its neighbor to the south, Kansas City, Omaha isn’t well-known for a thriving barbecue scene. Enter Tired Texan, tucked into the corner of a hotel at the intersection of 108th and L Streets. Alabama native Chip Holland smokes ribs, burnt ends, brisket and other meats that are often sold out by the middle of the day.
The Jaipur

33. The Jaipur, 10922 Elm St.
The Jaipur has been brewing beer in Omaha longer than most of the city's breweries, and its signature jalapeño beer is one many diners celebrate locally. It happens to pair well with the restaurant’s menu of curries and fragrant rice dishes. An outdoor covered patio is a popular option come summer.
Le Voltaire French Restaurant

34. Le Voltaire French Restaurant, 569 N. 155th Plaza
Chef Cedric Fichepain is as French as they come, and his petite west Omaha restaurant proves it. The menu, printed in both French and English, includes classics like escargots de Bourgogne, foie gras frais au sel marin toasté, steak frites à la Parisienne and coq au vin, among many other classic selections.
Dante

35. Dante, 16901 Wright Plaza
Dante’s fresh, seasonal and modern take on Italian food makes this a west Omaha favorite. It’s known locally for pizza, baked in a wood-fire oven, but the specials and house-made pasta are can’t-miss, and Dante also has a great Italian-only wine list.
Runza

36. Runza (many locations statewide)
You can’t come to Nebraska or be a Nebraskan without trying a Runza at least once. Volga German immigrants brought the meat pocket, stuffed with peppery ground beef, cabbage and sometimes cheese, to Nebraska. The bierock, as it’s traditionally known, is at the heart of what the Runza chain serves. Check its menu for a wide variety of Runzas, plus seasonally rotating specials.
elizabeth.freeman@owh.com, 402-444-1267